“Whoever lives in Berlin note, and doesn't die of Liberalism, will never die of vexation!”
— Ferdinand Lassalle
These posts from Berlin have been a little history heavy, and while that will continue for the first half of this post, I will include a some details on the more “fun” parts of this vibrant and wonderful city.
First, let’s get the “boring” stuff out of the way ;)
Brandenburg Gate
Standing at the center of Berlin’s major monuments, the Brandenburg gate is a magnificent sight, and a fantastic starting point for exploring central Berlin.
Tiergarten
Just past the Brandenburg gate is Berlin’s “central park”. The Tiergarten is both an outdoor museum, and a wonderful natural escape from the busy city surrounding it. This large urban forest contains many charming canals, bridges, and monuments to various famous figures and events in German history. Much like New York’s Central Park, it would take days to see all of it, but even an aimless wander through the Tiergarten will be rewarding.
Victory Column
The most obvious monument within the Tiergarten is smack-dab-in-the-middle of it, and provides the best 360° view of the entire park (and Berlin itself). The Victory Column was built to commemorate the Prussian victory in the Dano-Prussian War. However, between the time the column was commissioned and its inauguration, Prussia had two more victories in the Austro-Prussian War and the Franco-Prussian War, so they just decided to include them as a part of the monument.
While it is an indelible symbol of Germany’s 19th century martial pride (which would get the nation into trouble early in the next century), it remains a beautiful monument featuring a mosaic of Prussian history circling the lower level, and an even better panorama at the top ;)
The “Fun” Stuff
Clubs
To be honest, the main reason I haven’t led my posts with Berlin’s clubs is that they are not conducive to photos and videos. Don’t get me wrong, Berlin’s clubs are very photogenic and some of the coolest venues on the planet. The issue is that most clubs prohibit photography while inside. This policy might cramp the style of a travel blog, but it is still a rule which I am happy to follow, and even happier to see in place. It incentivizes keeping your phone in your pocket and enjoying the moment; something all of us could benefit from.
I am far from an authoritative guide, but here are some venues from this trip (and prior ones) worth checking out if you like electronic music and experiencing Berlin’s unique nightlife.
MS Hoppetosse
Ever thought a boat would be improved with a raging rave on board? This is your place.
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In 2019 this club taught me that Berlin’s nightlife venues can impress you both indoors and outdoors. This twin-staged, former illegal, nightclub has an amazing backyard, filled with scenic spots to take a break from the noise, smoke, and music.
Tresor
This is another unfortunate COVID closure, but this place astounded me so much in 2019 that I had to mention it here. It is another example of Berlin turning old industrial sites (in this case a heating plant) into unforgettable clubs. With 3 stages, connected via underground tunnels, exploring (and dancing) the night away is easy here.
Other Club Advice
Sites like Resident Advisor and Discotech are a great resource to find events and book advance tickets.
Ear plugs are your friend. Trust me, you’ll still be able to hear/feel the music in any club, even with heavy duty protection.
The Line: If you are interested in going to a venue or event with even the slightest popularity, be prepared to wait in line. However, the queue that bad in Berlin, as you are bound to strike up a conversation with some interesting people from around the world.
Food and Drink
Monsiour Vuong
Of all places, it was growing up in Ottawa which gave me an appreciation for Vietnamese food. For years, Somerset Street was the destination for late-night hangouts and reunions with friends back home.
In Berlin, at least around Mitte, there are a lot of great Vietnamese restaurants (I sampled many myself ;), but there is one undisputed king amongst them all, Monsiour Vuong.
Like the best clubs in the city, be prepared to wait for a table (for a lot less time at least ;) That said, I promise you it’ll be worth it. During this winter visit, Monsiour Voung’s Pho Hanoi and Tra Chanh Xa (a lime and ginger tea) were indispensable for getting warmed up and fed before a long night out.
Hackethals
I feel compelled to include at least one German restaurant here, even though I’m not the biggest fan of the native cuisine in Berlin. Even so, Hackethal’s is a must-visit if you insist on giving traditional food a chance here. This cozy spot serves German food which tastes great and has excellent house beers to wash it down.
Prater Beer Garden
One part of traditional German culture I will always adore is the beer garden, and the Prater Beer Garden is about as good as it gets. This large park is filled with benches, lights, and was abuzz when I was there in 2019. One of the few disappointments of this trip was that Prater was still closed due to COVID.
Café am Neuen See
I am happy to tell you that this “cafe” (which is more of a beer garden) is still open during COVID. It is located just a short walk from the Victory Column, right on the edge of an artificial lake in the Tiergarten. The waterfront view might make you forget that you are in the heart of Berlin ;)
Volksbar
Very comfortable a social bar, filled with the furniture you’d expect to find in your parent’s basement, or your first apartment. It’s a little like a larger (and cleaner) version of Welcome To The Johnson’s (an awesome dive bar in NYC)
Mein Haus Am See
This cafe is a staple of Torstraße (the main strip of Mitte), and is tailor-made for getting some pre-game caffeine and cocktails.
ick koof mir Dave Lombardo wenn ick reich bin
I haven’t been able to translate this name with certainty. Google Translate’s (and a few kind locals) best guess was “I will buy Dave Lombardo when I’m rich”.
Name aside, this bar is an unassuming local hangout with a very friendly staff who possess impressive mixology skills. It was a lucky discovery when I first came to the city in 2016, and now I always make time to visit anytime I’m in Berlin (and want to pretend like I live there for just an evening ;)
Monkey Bar
Go here to enjoy tiki-style drinks with an unbelievable view of the Tiergarten (and the monkey enclosures of the Berlin Zoo) below. It is a popular spot, so either get there early in the day, or be ready for a line up.
Yorckschlösschen
If you are in the mood for live jazz music, this is a great venue with solid bar food; along with a back room where you can take in the tunes, and still have a conversation.
What’s Next?
Dresden is going to be my next destination for a few days, before I make my return to Prague.